"Art is something that makes you breathe with a different kind of happiness." ~Anni Albers
This month's road trip took me on a 13-hour car ride to Texas. It was going to be my third trip to Houston, and my time was limited. Houston is a city that embraces its local artists and celebrates their creativity on almost every corner. I was enthusiastic to check out some of its public art, museums and a couple of creative beer gardens. Join me in exploring the artsy side of Houston with only 48 hours to spend.
My first stop was 12-acres of lush green space located across the street from my hotel in downtown Houston. Discovery Green is home to a recreational lake, an eco-friendly restaurant, fountains, two outdoor concert venues and some of the city's coolest art installations. I stood dwarfed by one of two giant rectangular Rubik Cubes of blues, greens, reds, and oranges called Synchronicity of Color that are opposite each other in the park. A few steps away is a bronze cast statue known as the House (Heart). On the Avenida de Americas side of the park is a large red, white and blue multi-figured sculpture of a dog, church, hedge, chimney, phantom, tree and mast known as Monument Au Fantome which means Monument to the Phantom or imaginary city. Fun interactive exhibits in the park are the Listening Vessels. The vessels are two stone sculptures designed so that a person sitting within the concave of one can speak and be heard by someone sitting in the other. Discovery Green rekindled my childlike enthusiasm for art, it was pure happiness.
My next stop was the Art Car Museum, a thematic display of repurposed cars into unique statement pieces of Pop Art. Each car is decorated inside and out with tile pieces, marble, seashells and paraphernalia from pop culture like hula dolls, tiny McDonald's kids meal toys and superhero figures. There are also car related photography, videography and sculpture exhibits that change every few months. The Art Car Museum building itself is even a chrome castle of art. If you happen to be in Houston in April, don't miss the annual Art Car Parade Weekend. This weekend event attracts over 250 vehicle visionaries and their art creations. Even if you aren't a car fanatic, this museum, which just celebrated its 20th Anniversary, should be on your list of art inspired things to do. Did I mention that it is free to enter?
A few miles from the Art Car Museum is a house that was estimated by Ripley's Believe It or Not to being covered with over 50,000 cans. The Beer Can House is the creation of beer enthusiast and urban folk art legend John Milkovisch. As soon as you drive up to the house, you know this is something special, for you are greeted by Milkovisch's soaring metal creation with the word Amen at the top and a sign with Live By Golden Rule written on it. The gate and side paneling of the house are covered in flattened beer cans. The porch ceiling and walls are wallpapered with beer labels. Multiple curtains of beer can tops hanging from the porch produce a musical symphony when the wind blows. Beer bottles are inserted into the fence creating a glass wall. There are stone, metal and glass statues throughout the front and back yards. The entire property is an environmentalist's dream of recycled and refurbished products creating Houston's most loved roadside attraction.
Next up was a walk around downtown Houston to see a few temporary public art installations that are mixed in with more permanent ones known as the Art Blocks. A stroll down Main Street will take you to Trumpet Flower a three-story multi-color wooden sculpture and the large gouache and ink mural of the Twins on Main Street Marquee. Walk down Clay Street to one of the permanent pieces, 230 foot wide and 130 feet tall, Sky Dance. Jete with Sky Dance's ballerinas on this massive mural that was inspired by dancers from Houston Ballet. It's art inspiring art, and I loved it. The temporary art is periodically changed out on the Art Blocks in Houston, so who knows what you will find on your own art walk.
Our last stop for this first day seduced me away from the visual arts into a more auditory and flavorful art experience. Axelrad, an immense outdoor beer garden with some interesting artsy seating, 30 taps of mostly local craft beer, rotating food trucks, pop-ups and musicians. As you enter the space, your eyes are irresistibly drawn to a tree of tubular lights in the center of the garden and the grove of hammocks behind it. The Axelrad sky high signage and front Airstream bar adds to the eclectic vibe. The most memorable pieces of visual art onsite are the tap handles, a visual masterpiece displayed along a wall in the back bar that is inside a 100-year-old building. The taps were hand carved by South American artist Maria Rangel, to resemble Guatemalan Worry Dolls.
I am a dark beer lover, so on my visit to Axelrad I had Blanco's Real Ale Brewing's Nitro Irish Stout, a bold and flavorful pour. My favorite of the night was a creamy pecan porter from Austin's 512 that allowed the nutty and chocolate flavors to shine through. The food truck that was there that Thursday night was Space Lobos and the pop-up was Houston’s very own Chef Evelyn Garcia, season 18 champion of Food Network's Chopped. Chef served an Asian influenced Pupusa, a Salvadoran sandwich that was bursting with flavor. I had never eaten one before and all I want to know is, when can I get another one?
The music stylings of Parker Luis Can't Lose and Animals in the Attic had many of us up dancing. If you are in Houston during the week, stop in for a beer and a slice from the acclaimed on site pizzeria, Luigi's and Axelrad's Monday movie nights. Wednesday night is jazz night with the renowned trumpeter Kermit Ruffins. FYI, Axelrad is dog and family friendly. It is adults only though after 8 pm on Friday and Saturday, after 9 pm Sunday to Thursday.
Started the next day off in Houston’s Museum District at one or more of its 19 museums. Standouts in the arts are the Contemporary Arts Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts and Diverse Works.
Spent the afternoon at one of the most remarkable Hindu temples, BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Houston. BAPS Houston is a true architectural work of art as it consists of 33,000 pieces of intricately hand carved Italian marble and Turkish limestone. The grounds, fountain and reflective ponds are impressive. The art inside the temple is exquisite. There was a feeling of tranquility here. You don’t have to be Hindu to visit, so everyone is welcome.
Before dusk I headed to Rice University’s pyramidal structure Skyspace. It's a programmed LED light sequence that is projected on the ceiling through an aperture in the roof every Wednesday to Monday before sunrise and sunset. The natural light at dawn and dusk when combined with the projected light transforms Skyspace into a reflective art exhibit like nothing you've seen before. Reservations are not necessary but recommended for this free light show.
Our final stop was Saint Arnold Brewing Company, Texas’ oldest craft brewery. Creating the perfect beer is a delicate balance of malts, yeast, hops, robust flavors and is art in itself. When you step inside it’s newly opened restaurant the walls are covered in vivid art murals. The murals depict scenes resembling ones you would find in European churches. The scenes are displayed within arched dining nooks throughout the restaurant. Lavish chandeliers hang from the wooden beams and stain glass windows adorn the walls above the nooks. Outside, there is a fountain crafted from an inverted brew kettle, bocce ball courts, corn hole and several magnificently adorned Art Cars are on display. Looming above it all, on the brewery side of the property, are three large scale silos beautifuly spray painted with Saint Arnold's logos. It was the best place to end our 48 hours before heading on to our next stop of this Texas road trip, Dallas.
Even though I only had 48 hours to get artsy in Houston I had a remarkable time discovering the creative visionaries that make Houston truly inspiring.